One of the quickest ways to ruin a fishing trip is to get wet, cold, hurt or worse. I’ve done all of the above and can tell you from experience—when fishing—comfort and safety should be your top priorities and the most important criteria when selecting waders.

I’m a believer that any pair of waders and boots is better than none at all. But you’re certainly going to experience a difference in comfort and protection between a cheap pair of shin high rubber muck boots versus top of the line chest waders. But what do you really need? And which waders are going to be best?

To answer these questions we’re first going to review the different types of boots and waders, their function, and pros and cons of each relative to the environment where you’ll be fishing. Then I’ll make a few recommendations based on my personal experience as well as the experience of a few of my die-hard fishing buddies.

• Rubber Muck Boots vs Wading Boots
• Bootfoot Waders vs Stockingfoot Waders
• Hip Waders, Waist Waders or Chest Waders?
• My Personal Recommendations
• Criteria for Selecting The Best Waders
• Other Considerations

Rubber Muck Boots vs Wading Boots

Before jumping into a pair of waders, it’s important to consider your footwear options. A good pair of fishing boots may be all you need.

If fishing from the bank, boat or “terra firma” is as close to the water as you plan on getting, look no further than a good pair of fishing boots.

Rubber (Muck) Boots

Back in the day, you had one option—a pair of rubbers (as we called them.) Rubber boots will keep the water out, but that’s about it in my opinion. I never found them comfortable, and they don’t last long. But you can pick up a pair for almost nothing.

Luckily, fishing footwear is much more versatile today. Chuck the rubber boots out with the trash and find yourself a pair of premium wading boots. I’m being a bit facetious, but with modern options it’s difficult to imagine anyone settling for a pair of old-school rubber boots.

There is a style of “rubber” boot called a muck book that a lot of angler’s swear by. High quality and built to last, muck boots provide a simple option for anglers who want a good sturdy, versatile boot without over complicating things. These boots can also be used for hunting and other outdoor activities.

For the rest of us anglers—who just don’t settle for second best—God invented the wading boot.

Wading Boots

A wading boot is a specialized boot designed to be worn with neoprene wading socks or stockingfoot waders. Other than the fact that wading boots are far superior to rubber boots—for reasons we’ll get into shortly—the biggest difference between the two is that rubber boots themselves are waterproof where wading boots are not.

Now you’re thinking, “waterproof vs not waterproof, I think I’ll go with waterproof!” I get it, but hear me out. The pros far out weigh the cons here my friend. Wading boots are designed to provide superior traction, support, protection and to allow water to enter and exit, not keep it out.

It’s the porous quality of wading boots that ensures they don’t get waterlogged making it difficult to walk or cause you to lose balance. Wading boots keep water weight and volume inside the boot to a minimum in order to ensure maximum stability in the water. Starting to see the picture?

Additionally, wading boots are much more ergonomic than rubber boots. They allow you to feel the contours of the riverbed when walking, yet when worn with waterproof neoprene socks—or similar material—provide ultimate comfort, warmth and mobility.

I should probably mention that wading boots are more durable, versatile and expensive than rubber boots as well. A good pair of wading boots is going to cost you a little more, but trust me they’ll be worth every extra penny you spend.

One of the most important aspects of wading boots, as I mentioned before, is that they are engineered to be worn in conjunction with stockingfoot style waders.

Now that we’re familiar with the basic types of fishing boots, what next? Well if a pair of rubbers, mucks, or wading boots with neoprene socks is good enough, you can stop reading here. For the rest of you, I recommend keeping an open mind and reading just little bit more.

Bootfoot Waders vs Stockingfoot Waders

We’re almost to the good part, but before we jump into the different types of fishing waders, let’s talk about the styles. There are two styles of waders you need to be familiar with—bootfoot and stocking foot.

Bootfoot waders have one-piece construction where the boot is permanently connected to the wader. Stockingfoot waders do not include the boot. Instead they have a sock-like bootie—made of neoprene or other waterproof material—which you wear a wading boot over along with a gravel guard.

Bootfoot Waders

It always seems like there’s a bad option and a good option—or a good option and a better option. In this case I’d say the bootfoot wader is a good option but the stockingfoot wader is going to be—for most anglers—a much better option.

Again, a bootfoot wader is just that, a wader with a boot attached at the foot. It’s a one piece wader that does a great job keeping the water out. So, if you’re the Wicked Witch of the West and panic at the thought of getting wet, then this is the wader style for you!

All kidding aside, the bootfoot wader serves a purpose—and was the premier wader style for many years. It’s one piece construction does a good job keeping water, sand, and debris from entering the wader. It’s also relatively warm and comfortable in cold water conditions.

So here’s the problem with bootfoot waders from my experience. The one piece construction that makes them so waterproof also makes them uncomfortable in conditions other than extreme cold. It’s also difficult to find a pair that provides a good fit. They’re heavy bulky construction makes them a pain to get around in compared stockingfoot waders, and they’re just not good for hiking or walking very far.

Stockingfoot Waders

So, I’ll get right to the point. If you haven’t already guessed, I prefer stockingfoot style waders to bootfoot style waders hands down—as do most of my fishing compadres. Could be that we just don’t do enough cold water fishing. But unless you’re in 3 feet of water during January you’re just going to be better served with the stockingfoot style.

The stockingfoot style is much more adaptable and versatile. It can be mixed and matched with your choice of footwear such as precision wading boots. It provides so many more options for soles including felt, specialized rubber and studded. Easy on, easy off, mobility, fit, ankle support, traction, and all around comfort—stockingfoot all the way.

There is, however, one fishing environment where I might select a bootfoot over stockingfoot and that’s surf fishing in Maine. If you’re going to be standing in the cold surf and getting pounded by the waves, the bootfoot’s one piece construction does a good job keeping the grit out and the heat in.

But even then, there so many specialized stockingfoot wader options these days that you really don’t even need to compromise.

Note: Any time you go with a stockingfoot style wader you need to invest in a gravel guard. Gravel guards wrap around the ankle at the transition between boot and wader and are designed to keep grit and debris from entering your boot. Many of the newer stockingfoot style waders come with the gravel guard built in.

So we’ve arrived! We understand the different types of fishing boots and the pros and cons of the two different wader styles: bootfoot vs stockingfoot.

Now let’s explore our wader options.

Hip Waders, Waist Waders or Chest Waders?

So you’ve got three types of waders: hip, waist and chest. Best part is you can probably guess what each of these is without much explanation. Honestly, once you’ve figured out your boot and wader style, selecting your wader type is the easy part.

So let’s take a deeper look at each wader type.

Hip Waders

Hip waders are essentially tall wading boots that extend up to your hips. They come in bootfoot or stockingfoot styles. They’re held up with straps that clip to a wader belt. They’re lightweight, easy on easy off, and really meant for fishing in shallow waters. If muck boots just aren’t quite enough, but a chest setup is too much, hip waders are a good in between.

If you’re a beginner, or occasional fisherman, hip waders are a good place to start. Streams, shallow rivers, bank fishing… if this is the extent of your fishing activity then I wouldn’t tell you not to purchase a pair of hip waders. If you get the stockingfoot style, complemented with a solid pair of wading boots, hip waders can do well for hiking into fishing spots as well.

Now if you’re going to venture into water that’s deeper than 2 feet, fish water with substantial current, or you really like getting out in the dead of winter, then you may want to add a different type of wader—such as a chest wader—to your arsenal.

Waist Waders

Waist waders are really a compromise between hip and chest waders—a compromise some anglers feel unecessary. If you’re going taller than hip waiters, why not just go with a chest wader over a waist wader?

Here are the two biggest benefits of waist waders in my book. First, they attach securely around the waist making them much less likely to allow water or debris to enter. Second, they’re typically lighter weight and less cumbersome than chest waders.

When I’m fishing from a raft I hate trying to row wearing chest waders. Big chest waiters get in the way and I tend to overheat. If I’m planning a rafting trip, the first thing I throw in the duffle bag are my lightweight waist waders.

Waist waders are also great for hiking. I actually prefer hiking in waist waders over a hip waders. It’s just like having on a lightweight pair of pants.

Waist waders come in a variety of styles and from what I’ve seen are a bit more affordable than chest waders given a similar level of quality. Again, get a pair that comes with gravel guards built in.

So I’ve heard several anglers ask why not just purchase a pair of chest waders and roll them down to your waist and then back up when you need to fish deeper water? It’s a valid question, and I know a few anglers who do just that. But I still think you get more mobility for hiking, rafting, and just moving around with waist waders.

Chest Waders

We’ve arrived at the big mama of waders—chest waders. Chest waders extend up to the chest and are ideal for deeper water. They provide maximum protection against the elements.

I use chest waders ninety percent of the time I fish with waders, and I’m pretty confident that most anglers do as well. When I surveyed my fishing buddies their response was about the same—most of the time they dawn their chest waders.

Chest waders come in basically two types of materials. A breathable material that is good for warmer times of the year and a neoprene materially which basically is only good for fishing in the dead of winter. You do not want to be in neoprene any other time of they year than winter. Neoprene chest waders can be super heavy and cause you to sweat to death in anything but the coolest conditions.

Breathable chest waders don’t provide the insulation of neoprene waders but by adding just a few layers of clothing they can keep you nice and toasty when necessary. I use breathable waders through late November without issue. I only break out the neoprene during December or January.

When you’re selecting a set of chest waders make sure they come with a wading belt. If they don’t come with a belt, make sure to buy one. If you go under the water not wearing a securely fastened wading belt, your waders will fill with water and all of a sudden you weigh a thousand pounds and aren’t going anywhere but down if the water catches you. Make sure to wear that belt.

My Personal Recommendations

Here we are, nearing the end. So, which fishing wader is the best? It really depends on how you intend to use it.

But, if I had to choose just one set of fishing waders, which would it be? It would be a lightweight, nice fitting chest wader made of a breathable material with stockingboot style booties—and a damn good pair of high-end wading boots. When I asked a group of 8 anglers I was out fishing with the same question, their reponse was not surprisingly the same.

Again, your chest waders will work for most any situation where you would think to use waist waders, hip waders, or even solo boots. What’s nice about the newer styles of chest waders is they’re not as bulky and cumbersome as their predecessors. They’re much more comfortable and versatile.

However, it’s not to say that chest waders are the only waders you should have. Again, there are scenarios, such as microfishing and hike fishing, where wearing a pair of up to the armpit chest waders isn’t advisable. If you commonly hike in to high mountain fishing spots or regularly transverse shallow streams all day, a lighter weight pair of waist waders is really all you’ll ever need.

I don’t use or recommend muck boots for fishing, unless you’re using them for other outdoor activities such as hunting. Muck boots are versatile. If you’ve got a pair they’ll keep your feet dry when fishing from the bank or a boat, but there are better boots out there these days. If you want an all around good outdoor boot, that will also work for hunting, a muck boot will get the job done.

Which brand of wader do I like? I’ve only ever purchased waders from Simms and Orvis. These are my two favorite wader brands. You can expect to purchase high qualiy, top of the line waders from either of these companies. I’ve heard plenty of good things about Skwala and Patagonia waders as well.

Again, I mostly use stockingfoot style chest and waist waders. I have a pair of hip waders, but rarely use them anymore. The following are my top three picks for hip, waist, and chest waders.

If I were in the market for new hip, waist or chest waders, this is what I would buy.

Orvis Clearwater Wader

The Orvis Clearwater Wader is a quality chest wader at a price that won’t break the bank. This is about as inexpensive of a quality wader as you’re going to find under $300. Everything else I reviewed at this price point just didn’t offer both the features and quality as the Orvis Clearwater.

What stands out to me most about the Orvis Clearwater is the four layer construction in the lower leg portion of the wader. You’re just not going to find this in most other budget waders. This makes the Clearwater much less prone to leaks as comparably priced waders.

Orvis also uses a low-profile seam in the construction of this wader, and it’s really one of the best seam jobs I’ve seen on a wader. The seam is sturdy and isn’t going to let water in.

Best of all, this wader fits like a high-end suade glove. Gives you all the room you need to move around freely, yet snug in all the right places.

The only downside to this wader? It’s still a budget wader. It’s not going to last you quite as long, keep out the cold quite as well, or stand up to wear and tear at the same level as some of your $600+ premium options.

For the weekend warrior, or even the seasonal summer time angler, this is a great wader that will do just about everything you need a wader to do.

Simms Men’s Freestone Wading Pant

So this wading pant, or waist wader, is a bit on the pricey side but I really like it. In the spirit of full transparency, this is not the waist wader I own. But if I were to upgrade, this would be the wader I’d get. Why? First, it’s made by one of the best fishing apparel companies in the world—Simms. So you know you’re getting a quality product backed by a strong guarantee.

This is a great wader for warm summer days when a chest wader is just overkill, yet it’s 4-layer upper and lower will allow you to use it well into cooler fall months with complete comfort.

I’m not a gadgets guys. Typically, I’m of the mindset simple is better, but I have to admit, when it comes to fishing apparel, features have their benefits—especially practical features. Zippered fly for easy on and off—worth a million dollars when nature calls. Well positioned hip pockets for easy access to fishing essentials. Comfy neoprene stockingfeet that allow you to focus on fishing and not your feet. Elastic wading belt that gives when it time to touch your toes. Great features, that make sense, and which most older waist waders don’t include.

I give Simm’s Men’s Freestone Wading Pant a solid two thumbs up.

Simms Men’s Second Wind Stockingfoot Hip Wader

My last pick is also another Simms wader. I’m not a hip wader type of angler. I’ve got a pair that haven’t seen the light of day for about five years. But that’s not to say that hip waders don’t have their place, they do. They just don’t appeal to the type of fishing I prefer. If you’re going to be fishing the shallows in high mountain streams or sticking to the banks, hip waders will serve you well and the best hip wader currently on the market in my opinion is the Simms Men’s Second Wing Stockingfoot Hip Wader.

The Simms Men’s Second Wing Stockingfoot Hip Wader really appeals to my style. Simple, durable and practical. Unlike a lot of hip waders that come as a bootfoot, the Simms hip wader is constructed with a high performance stockingfoot. (Any time I can get a stockingfoot over a bootfoot, it’s a good thing.) This wader really breaths so you don’t have to worry about overheating or any discomfort as you’re trudging along the river bed or up a trail.

Built in gravel guard (a must for me), 4-layers of durable material, and made in the USA are just icing on the cake.

I give the Men’s Second Wind Stockingfoot Hip Wader a solid two thumbs up and highly recommend it if a hip wader is what you’re looking for.

Criteria for Selecting Waders

This isn’t going to sound very scientific, and frankly it isn’t, but it is based on over 20 plus years experience fishing everything from high mountain streams in Colorado to ladder fishing for giant Lahontan trout in Nevada’s Pyramid Lake. There are two things you really care about when purchasing a set of waders—comfort and safety.

It’s really that simple. Not many anglers I know put on waders to look good. They simply want to be able to comfortably fish as long as possible without risking life or limb.

Comfort

I wouldn’t say that comfort is more important than safety when it comes to selecting waders, but it’s typically the first thing I consider when I go fishing. Comfort equals more time fishing, which means more fish, and an all around more enjoyable fishing trip.

Criteria I consider for maximizing comfort ranked ordered from most to least importance.

1. Size – Waders that are too big or too small restrict movement. For some types of waders it’s challenging to find a size that fits. This is especialy true of bootfoot style waders where finding a comfortable boot size is often at odds with finding an equally comforable wader length and vice versa.
2. Fit – Good fit not only provides unrestricted movement but ensures a wader is comfortable and will protect you against the elements. You’ll find the best fit when using a stockingfoot wader combined with a premium wading boot.
3. Mobility – The type and style of wader you select will greatly impact your ability to move comfortably and navigate uneven terrain. For me, stockingfoot style hip or waist wader paired with a premium wading boot provides the highest degree of mobility.
4. Heat conservation – Different types of waders conserve heat differently. A wader with high heat retention, such as bootfoot or neoprene wader, is great for cold weather but can be uncomfortably hot during the summer.
5. Fabric – The type of fabric you choose impacts wader performance at every level including comfort, mobility, durability, warmth, and waterproofness. Neoprene is warm and durable, but doesn’t breath well.
6. Breathability – Breathable waders help regulate body temperature and control moisture, which is crucial for comfort. They reduce the risk of overheating. GoreTex and Toray fabrics are durable and probably provide the highest degree of breathability of any fabric currently used for waders.

Safety

Unless you have a habit of hardwater fishing on ice less than 4 inches thick, or tackling giant marlin without your rod safety strap firmly secured, the risk of causing great bodily harm or injury while fishing is fairly low. The biggest thing you need to concern yourself with when fishing is injury from slips, falls and ankle twists.

Criteria I consider for maximizing safety ranked ordered from most to least importance.

1. Support – Good support—especially ankle support—is critical to maintaining balance, stability, and avoiding falls and sprains. This is one of the main reasons I prefer a stockingfoot bootie and wading boot combo over any type of bootfoot wader.
2. Fit – Fit and support are just a little bit different. Support incorporates an element of strength where fit refers specifically to how well a wader (and boot) melds to the shape of your lower leg, ankle, and foot. A good fit is essential for avoiding slips and sprains.
3. Traction – What better place to slip and slide than in a river with slimy rocks and moving water. You’ve got three sole options that produce traction: felt, studded felt, and rubber. Felt provides superior grip on slippery, slimy rocks. For extra grip studs can be added to the bottom of felt boot soles. Rubber provides less traction on slippery surfaces than felt but works well in all types of conditions.Note: Felt soles are banned in several states due to the possibility of picking up parasites, invasive species, and harmful organisms that can be transferred to other bodies of water. Many modern day rubber soles now have superior gripping ability, almost on par with that of felt soled boots.
4. Breathability – Breathability allows air to enter and moisture and heat to escape. This is bigger issue than most anglers realize. If your waders don’t breath, as is common with neoprene waders, there is a high likelyhood you’ll overheat during the warmer months—even when standing in the middle of a river.

Other Considerations

Modern technology and materials used in the contruction of fishing gear—waders in particular—has come a long way over the last two decades. This has improved safety, performance and comfort of waders tremendously.

One of the biggest improvements to waders has been the introduction of new higher performing fabrics. A lot of waders are still made of outdated materials so do your research and know what you’re buying. You’re better off spending a little bit more money to get high performance materials.

Neoprene

We all know what neoprene is, or at least have heard of it. For many years neoprene was the new kid on the block. It offered performance superior to anything on the market. It’s lightweight, flexible and extremely warm. It’s hard to beat neoprene when fishing in the extreme cold. It comes in thicknesses from 2 mm to 7 mm. The thicker the neoprene, the warmer it will keep you.

However, neoprene—especially the warm stuff—can be bulky and less flexible. It also can become brittle over time, decreasing its useful life. As good as neoprene was, and is, there are now fabrics that perform better for certain use cases.

Breathable Fabrics

There are now a number of breathable fabrics used for making fish waders. The most common being GoreTex and Toray. Both are marketed as being waterproof and breathable. The biggest benefit of using waders made of either of these two fabrics, or any other high quality breathable fabric, is that they keep the water out at the same time allowing moisture to pass through.

While breathable materials aren’t typically as insulating as neoprene, you can simply add or remove layers of clothing underneath to regulate temperature the same way you might when snow skiing.

Thickness and durability of waders that incorporate breathable material is measured in terms of layers. For example, a wader marketed as five-layer Goretex is going to be thicker and more durable than a three-layer wader made of the same material. Goretex is often layered between nylon fabric to create breathable, durable waders. Cheaper waders are typically constructed of thinner nylon while high-end waders will be made of thick heavy-duty nylon that is less prone to tearing.

Price

You get what you pay for!

Well, there is a little bit more to it than that. But a nice pair waters—and when I say nice I mean comfortable, durable and high peforming—is going to cost you. But they’re also going to last.

I have a really old pair of hip waders that I rarely use, but they’re still just as good as the day I bought them. They were a little bit pricey back in the day, but they’re so well constructed they’ll last me a lifetime.

Getting started you can pick up a decent pair of hip waders for less than $50. As you move toward waist waters and chest waders you’re going to be in the $300+ range on price. A premium pair of high quality durable chest waders from a reputable brand can easily set you back $800 or more. Again, when you get into the higher price ranges you’re going to be getting a pair of waders that should last you a lifetime.

If you purchase from a quality brand, you’re going to get a quality product. It may cost you a little more upfront, but you’ll save time, money and hassle down the road.

Happy fishing!